Recreating a Fashion Plate- the Black and Lavender Natural Form Dress- The Plan

There are many levels of costumers, from beginner to professional, and some are more prolific than others.  I am somewhat in the middle, as far as intermediate costuming goes, as well as in the middle in terms of my proliferation.  I always have 2-3 projects "in the works", and usually they get made faster (or don't) depending on need.  This project has been in the works for several years, and it just needs to get FINISHED.  It will this year, I swear!  Mostly because I tire of wearing the same Natural Form dress to everything.  :)

All costumers fall in love with certain periods.  I have fallen HARD for the Natural Form era, specifically circa 1878, which is the early part of that period.  There are certain attractions:

     1) Trains!  Because of my height, I LOVE wearing a train, having it sweep along behind me, and make me look even longer (and thinner)!

     2) Trim!  So many fun and gorgeous trims to add!  Ribbon, ruffles, lace, and fluffy skirts!

     3) It's late Victorian, so it can usually be worn to anything that is bustle related

     4) Since it doesn't require a bustle, I can drive while wearing it, without needing to worry about how I am getting in and out, and where the bustle lays (and adjusting the layers on top so that they lay correctly).

(In later Natural Form, around 1880-1882, they removed the train, and added weird layers around the hips to make the hips look bigger.  I am not a huge fan.)

This is the first time I am making a dress from a fashion plate, without a pattern.  This is a HUGE step for me, and so I am slightly apprehensive about how it will turn out.

The Project

In doing research for patterns, I came across this image on the Truly Victorian pattern website, in the "History of Victorian Clothing" page.  (It's not there anymore, since they've updated their website.)

Something about this dress just made me think, "I want THAT!"  But of course, never having recreated a fashion plate before, I am stymied about where to start.

Let's start by breaking down the image.

Part 1- the back sides

Starting with the skirt, I am breaking this down into five parts.  The first part is the sides of the train.  In studying the image, it looks like a relatively simple shape, with decorative buttons and buttonholes, and a bow connecting the two sides.  Simple enough.  I just have to make sure the pieces are long enough for me.  I can do this!

Plan for execution:
Measure the image, and draft by hand (gasp!) a triangle that would be the same length on me.  Cut out in layers: fashion fabric, white cotton backing and black twill (since it looks like it needs to be stiff, not flowing).  Add some fabric around the edges to bind, then create buttonholes, and sew on the twenty-one (wait, what?!) buttons per side.  And then cut and sew on some fabric on each side for the floppy bow.

Part 2- the train

Ah, trains!  This looks fairly easy as well.  I am starting to get more confident.

Plan for execution:
Just take a piece of fabric, cut so that it forms a circular train, add some horsetail underneath to keep the train out.  (Note: even though the image shows pleats only going one direction, I am choosing to make pleats that go both directions.  I have also given up in advance of having the pleats remain in place while in the train.  Some things can be easily drawn, but will never stay in place given any kind of movement.)

Part 3- the front upper swag

Ah, this is where it starts to get tricky.  Since we only see part of the front at an angle, we don't get a clear image of what it's supposed to look like.  I call the lines in the front "swags", because that's what it looks like to me.  And is that fringe?!?!

Plan for execution: 
Shhhhh, it's a secret!  (Hint: I call it "don't reinvent the wheel".)

Part 4- the front lower swag

It's at this point where I realize, what the heck was I thinking!  I can't do this.  I can't draft patterns.  I don't know what I'm doing.  It's a side swag?  And what the heck's happening in the middle!  I don't know!  Is that more fringe?!  And what's with the circles?  Are those buttons?  Why are there buttons there?!?!

Plan for execution:
Go home and drink copious amounts of alcohol and hope my delusions of grandeur go away.  Blargh.

No, really, I am still pondering this part.  Since it's not attached to the upper swag (attaching them would make the upper swags droop unattractively), I am thinking that it's another layer in the front part of the skirt, underneath the upper swags, possibly meeting in the middle.  Hmmmmm.  More to study and ponder.

Part 5- the front hem

Okay, I'm back on solid ground again.  A hem!  That's simple.  I can breathe easier.

Plan for execution:
Even though this is the smallest part of the skirt we see, it also may be the easiest. It looks like just a simple front skirt, with a ruffle on the bottom, plus maybe some ribbon.  Done!

Part 6- the bodice

Oh, by all that's holy.  I have to make a bodice, too!  Why, dear lord, why????????

Plan for execution:

In looking at Truly Victorian's Natural Form patterns, I noticed something: they have a bodice pattern that matches the pattern above!  Oh, glory be!  I just need to add some ribbon and ruffles on the cuffs, fiddle with the collar, and adjust some of the pattern pieces.  Easy!  Ha!

Oh, right, and add a fabric ribbon.  And what is that stuff on the bottom?  And the friggin collar.  Did I mention that collars are my new foe?  Sleeves are evil, but collars.  Collars, you have met your match.

To be continued in - The Execution.

Suggestions, comments, questions?  Let me know!

Thanks for reading!